Marni Focuses on Deconstruction for Fall/Winter 2022

Creative director Francesco Risso turned to community and DIY influences this season.

Creative director Francesco Risso turned to community and DIY influences this season.

Creative Director Francesco Risso’s psychedelic and whimsical tenure at Marni continued in Milan this season as the Italian designer took the house on a DIY-filled journey. Titled “WearAfter,” Risso’s fall/winter collection was a masterclass in deconstructing tailoring with swatches of color play and manipulation throughout.

As has become common practice with the Italian brand, a DIY runway was an additional focal point to the already experimental ready-to-wear pieces. This season, attendees gathered haphazardly around a dimly lit, leaf-strewn alley as models paraded, many carrying powerful flashlights to guide the way.

“The future has come and gone, leaving us alone, but together in the dark, but clearer than before,” Risso said in a statement to reporters. “Where are we going next? Where are we connected, beyond what binds us to each other?” This season, the Italian designer has been fascinated by the concept of mending and handmade in response to this overarching question.

Patchwork knits, mismatched prints and splashed patterns were the mainstays of the collection, while hints of Risso’s tailoring expertise were splashed in between. DIY influences came in the form of distressed leathers, extremely oversized cardigans and bright red polka dot princess dresses. Avoiding a continuous palette, Risso’s talent for color and pattern play shone throughout, especially in the collection’s knits and layered pieces.

And in an unusual move for the industry, Risso himself walked the runway wearing an embellished cropped suit ensemble and yellow cardigan. Behind the designer were two rainbow-colored tails that looked like a bridal train. After the show, guests and models gathered outside to share fruitcakes and brightly colored desserts strewn across long tables in an effort to blur the lines between community, runway and design.

Although many look to the Metaverse and NFTs to guide the future, Francesco Risso looks to the community. From inclusive and realistic casting to one-of-a-kind fabrication, Marni de Risso is a welcome ode to unity and the bonds we share.

Credits: Images courtesy of Marni.